1.Mark 5cm ‘十’ at 10 cm along the SS 

2.Pin the necking cut some off extracts and clips in 

3.placing a little dart 1.5 cm depth at back 

4.ease(pin) at the back   

5. Mark SS along the tape, Bust -Waist - Hips ,add 5 cm on the back of SS

Step1- draping a lapel on the coat 

1.take photo of blazer an un-pick it

2.Use the blazer pieces as a templates to make sure you line up with shoulder  stitching 

line and CF (make sure CF is line up straight. Remember to add S.A to the edge 

3.trace all blazer edge with S.A, all trace the lapel folder on the calico (break-line )

Step2. -translating to paper pattern :tracing 

1.mark up CB ,neckline and break-line ,un-picked the shoulder seam 

2.lay and trace to your new patterns ,trace off 

Step 3-Completing paper pattern :Matching collar

1.march shoulder seam together, add 6mm neckline and 12mm CB 

2.check flow through of the neck 

Steps 4 -Completing pattern:Collar

1.walk around from CF to CB .

2.march the CF on the Front with the notch on the collar 

3.mark the shoulder junction 

4.add extension of your collar by march the CB (cut the CB and add extra)

Steps 5-completing pattern: Facing  

1.creating own facing, coming up into the shoulder seam which continued to the CB 

2.Mark 5cm to the shoulder from the stitching line and mark about 15cm across the stitching line 

3.draw a curve from the point you mark on 

Sewing label and collar 

Construction 

Lapel ,front ,back ,collar ,facing 

1.sew the two back and bodice together 

9.stitch the middle sections of the lapel 

10.cut the inward Conner, fold the Conner into the other side of the lapel 

11.stitch the upper collar to the under collar ,lining up 

12.sewing the last corner all the way to the lapel 

13.cuts all the Conner  appear on the lapel 

14.press straight seam on the ironing bored, make sure seam is facing the inside

I learn lots new things such as how to sew a lapel with upper collar and with under collar together.

For my own process, I did Lapel ,front ,back ,collar ,facing and also pockets and lining. I am happy with the results of my blazer . The most difficult part is sewing the conner on the lapel and get less bulk fabrics by cutting, especially the inward conner have to be cut and sew. I think I would do it better next to make the inward conner and outside edges more shape by cutting the bulk area.

I also learn the order of sewing the lapel is very important, it will makes a different when it comes to result. Un-picking a blazer does help the sewing, I almost figure out how to sew just by un-picking it and it makes more sense about the process.